Some kind of mortar bed would be my bet if you wanted to go with a cement.īut, why not just build a wooden subfloor? Me and concrete products don't seem to get along well, so I would just get some (maybe pressure-treated) 3/4 plywood and some sleepers (wood to lay the plywood to). When I used expanded metal in a mortar shower pan of that thickness, it didn't end well (it acted as a shear plane, as mentioned above). Posted by nickjadlowe at 1:14 PM on Septem If your area is super dry, you may even want to put some plastic over the slab while it cures so it doesn't cure too quickly. Your slab will crack, but it should be fine and will crack in these joints that you cut.īe sure to give the concrete plenty of time to cure (1 week min) before you put a "moving" weight on it like a washer/dryer. You can do this with a circular saw and a concrete/diamond blade (also rent-able). If you use a 4x4, you may consider leaving it in place so you don't wear too heavily on the leading edge of the new slab over time.īe sure to cut some control joints in your slab the day after you pour it. It is usually blue and comes in rolls 4" wide. If your floor is uneven, you can staple some foam "sill sealer" to the bottom of the 4x4 before attaching it to the floor. If I was doing it (without knowing the size of your slab or the configuration of your basement) I would probably use a 4x4 as a form that you can pin to the existing slab with a ramset nailer. Don't pour over your existing slab, as it will be too thin and crack or spall. If you are having concrete delivered, and have a choice, go with a fairly stiff (low slump) mix with a strengthening additive. Just be sure it is not laying on the bottom or within 1/2" of the top. Be sure to use some 6-6-10 welded wire mesh (available at Home Depot) in the slab and make sure you suspend it about mid-depth in the concrete as you are pouring. 2" is about as thin a slab as you would want to pour, but it should be ok. I'm an architect with a design/build firm.(for whatever that's worth)
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